And even though he is not typically as loud while climbing in competitions, there is still a chance that Ondra will offer his unique vocal stylings at the Olympics. As a result, she has had to be extra cautious—particularly outside—about the impact of falls and the consequent natural compression of her spine. In her Olympic qualifying performance, Raboutou placed 6th in speed climbing, 10th in bouldering, and 7th in lead climbing, exemplifying her ability for fairly consistent placement across the scoreboard. He has won bouldering World Cup events, he has placed high in lead climbing World Cup competitions, and he is a stellar speed climber. In most cases, the athletes won’t know if they made the team until about two weeks before the Olympics begin. The auto-belay only lowers the climber; it does not in any way assist the climber, i.e., pull her up the wall. Initially the rules were interpreted such that this spot would only be used if no Japanese athlete would manage to qualify through the other qualifying events. At the 2019 IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) Climbing World Championships held in Hachioji, Japan, 253 athletes competed for 7 qualifying spots in the 2020 Olympics. Hundreds of spectators watched these athletes try to work through different problems as fast as possible, over forty feet up in the air. And even if she does win the speed climbing, she will still likely have to score higher than 8th place in the other events—which would merit a multiplied final score of 64 (see—SCORING)—in order to have any chance at finding a place on the Olympics’ podium. Coxsey is also one of the most prominent climbers in British media. This might sound like a minor detail, but the friction on plastic can be quite dissimilar to the friction on granite, limestone, or sandstone. Competition climbing is back, at least for the next several days. But he surprised pundits by nearly winning the United States’ inaugural Combined Invitational in January 2019, placing second behind the winner, Zach Galla. On hard outdoor routes, Ondra is known for being extremely vocal in the crux sections—heck, there are entire “Adam Ondra Screaming” compilations on YouTube. To have any chance of earning a medal at the Tokyo Olympics, she will likely have to win the speed portion. She has been a perennial favorite in her home country of Canada for years alongside her compatriot Sean McColl (also an Olympian—see MEN’S). His speed-run times are also respectable too, often hovering around 7-seconds-flat. Updated 3/11/20: We've added bios for Pan-American Championship winners Colin Duffy (USA) and Alannah Yip (CAN). Usually when no one does a boulder, I bet on him. Because López is so young, we don’t have a substantial body of work on which to base Olympic predictions, but that also makes López one of the most exciting competitors to watch. Krampl emerged on the adult scene two years ago and immediately looked impressive with high placements in two Chinese lead climbing World Cups. Krampl also holds the distinction of having created one of the most thrilling moments of the 2019 World Cup circuit when she climbed despite an injured knee (…not something that Climbing necessarily endorses or supports) and ended up making a podium in Munich, Germany. But one of the first times he made waves in the adult field was at the American Combined Invitational in 2019. We know that sport climbing is going to be competed at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, however it’s still to be decided whether or not climbing will be featured in the Paris 2024 Olympic games. Get to know the 20 men and 20 women competing in climbing’s inaugural Olympic event, © 2020 Pocket Outdoor Media Inc. All Rights Reserved, Climbing in the 2020 and 2024 Olympics: How We Got Here and What the Future Holds, embrace parkour exercises and unique cross-training, ban due to a World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA) ruling, High Drama: The Rise, Fall, and Rebirth of American Competition Climbing. The Games—and the debut of sport climbing—may be postponed for one year, but Olympic rock climbers are sticking to their training regimens, even during the coronavirus isolations. Oceania (Sydney, Australia): April 18-19, 2020. And he has mentioned that he wants to pursue more big-wall climbing as well (routes typically 1,000 feet or taller), which could be an area that he focuses on when his legendary competition career wraps up. He has earned medals in bouldering World Cup events too. Here’s a list of key climbing terms both to help you understand this article and what the commentators will be talking about during the Olympics. That right-hand sloper will help her stabilize her body so she can reach for the top. He has won numerous medals at the World Cup level in both bouldering and lead climbing events. Don’t let that old-school nod mislead you though; Harada’s World Championship victory two years ago proves that he is perfectly adept on the most contemporary competition routes. [Related] First Look: The Tokyo 2020 Olympic Climbing Walls. She has participated in a limited number of lead and speed events outside of the combined context, so she will be another competitor looking to have a spectacular bouldering performance at the Olympics buttressed by speed climbing and lead climbing performances that are adequate enough to advance into the finals. December 2, 2019. Many people have been wondering how athletes qualify to compete at this monumental event. His speed results have not been quite as impressive (i.e., 42nd place at that Wuijang World Cup), but he is still considered one of the most well-rounded competitors on a Japanese national team that has arguably more depth than any other country’s squad. Megos was not a mainstay on the World Cup circuit until recently; it seems that a chance to participate in the Olympics sparked something in him, and it resulted in a stellar 2019 season: 2nd place at a lead climbing World Cup in Chamonix; 3rd place at a lead climbing World Cup in Villars; 8th place in the combined discipline at the World Championships—which ultimately earned him an Olympic invite. A type of hold that’s too large to be designated as just a handhold or foothold, but is more of a feature. Few competitors are more capable of putting all separate disciplines together in a robust combined performance; and Yip’s best Combined showing to date just might happen in Tokyo this summer. Far from a stoic climber, his youthful exuberance could easily make him one of the fan- and sponsor-favorites at the Olympics. She has appeared in fashion magazines, and she is sponsored by Tag Heuer and Beats by Dre. There will be 40 athletes in total in Tokyo, evenly split into two groups of 20, competing in three disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing and speed. At the year’s World Championships, she won the bouldering discipline, won the lead climbing discipline, and then won the separate combined discipline. The top 20 athletes from the World Cup will enter the International Federation of Sport Climbing Olympic Qualifying Event from November 28 to December 1 in Toulouse, France. For example, when he qualified for the Olympics in Toulouse, Khaibullin won the speed portion, but impressively placed 5th in lead (and 8th in bouldering). A type of hold gripped between the fingers and an opposing thumb, in any orientation. Some of the Olympians (such as the Czech Republic’s Adam Ondra) are well known for climbing the world’s most difficult rock climbs—on revered cliffs in Yosemite, Norway, Spain, and elsewhere—in addition to participating in high-level competitions. A lot of “casual climbers” will likely tune in to watch the Olympics because they hear that Megos is taking part. Thus, not all 40 Olympic slots have been filled yet, and not all qualified countries have met their maximum quota. The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for climbing competitions, which consist of lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering, and was founded on 27 January 2007 as a continuation of the International Council for Competition Climbing, which came into existence in 1997. He is considered to be a speed specialist. The second boulder is a slab, which is generally something she struggles with in competition. The most important day after an entire week of nail-biting European Climbing Championships in Moscow, with the best eight athletes competing for the remaining two Olympic quota places for Tokyo 2020. Following each round of competition, the athletes … Condie’s backstory is even more compelling than her results. This means that despite the combined format, Sport Climbing will still involve some of the best athletes from each discipline. John Burgman is the author of High Drama: The Rise, Fall, and Rebirth of American Competition Climbing, which chronicles the history of American competition climbing. And like Poland’s Aleksandra Miroslaw and Russia’s Luliia Kaplina, Song will have to win the speed portion of the combined discipline to best situate herself for a strong overall showing. Learn more here. Kyra Condie. For the first time in history, Sport Climbing will be part of the Olympic Games in Tokyo, 2020. Admittedly she was on the cusp with her Olympics qualification at the 2019 World Championships in Hachioji, Japan, but an Olympic berth is an Olympic berth. Qualifying for the Olympics. Athletes began qualifying for the 2020 U.S. Olympic Team on July 14, 2019, a process which will continue for a year. Sport Climbing Preview Sport climbing will make its debut at the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020. She placed fourth at a bouldering World Cup event in Munich, Germany, last year, and 7th at a lead World Cup competition in Villars, Switzerland. Sport Climbing (4) Kyra Condie Brooke Raboutou Nathaniel Coleman Colin Duffy. As an example, in the finals of those aforementioned World Championships, she placed 2nd in the speed portion and 3rd in the bouldering portion, and 7th in the lead climbing portion. Pan is China’s quintessential all-arounder; he appears calm and comfortable in any climbing format and will likely be a megastar as competition climbing continues to boom in his home country. The new Olympic Combined format brings together all three Sport Climbing disciplines in one big event. Climbing is certainly one of the most lingo-intensive sports in the world. Adam Ondra won the bouldering event with three tops. Here is an example of South Korea’s Jain Kim clipping the rope into a quickdraw with her left hand as she climbs. Her send of the third boulder was quick and impressive. Climbing (4) Nathaniel Coleman. For the first time in history, Sport Climbing will be part of the Olympic Games in Tokyo, 2020. One of the feel-good stories of the Olympics lead-up was Yip’s qualification, which she finally secured at the Pan-American Championships. Sport climbing has become highly popular over the past two decades. We could dig into older results as well, such as a gold medal in bouldering at the 2018 World Championships, or a gold medal in lead climbing at the 2016 World Championships…but after a while, it all just seems superfluous. Athletes need to have enough strength, endurance and power to come out on top at the end of two full days of competition. Yip is a bouldering specialist, evidenced by high results at bouldering World Cup events in 2019: fifteenth-place finishes in Meiringen, Switzerland, and Vail, United States, as well as a ninth-place finish in Moscow, Russia. He is also a member of Team ABC, the squad that produced Olympian Brooke Raboutou. She has received a personal letter from the Queen. Africa (Johannesburg, South Africa): May 1-3, 2020. This means that Fossali’s best chance at winning an Olympic medal is a top-place finish in the speed portion of the combined discipline. Like his brother Bassa, Mickael Mawem has taken part in Ninja Warrior programs and thus branched into pop culture, particularly in Europe, to a degree that few others on the Olympic roster have. Duffy followed up that performance with a second place finish at the American Combined Invitational the following year, the same year (2020) that he punched his Olympic ticket by winning the Pan-American Championships in Los Angeles. For this reason, Megos is a figurative linchpin for the disparate worlds of competitive climbing and outdoor mega-sends. 2. The first event on an artificial climbing wall was organised in a gym in Vaulx-en-Velin, near Lyon, France, in 1986. Coxsey has battled back from a series of injuries in the past few years (damaged cartilage in a knee and a ruptured tendon in a finger), all of which have caused her to miss significant stretches of competition. In a historic move, the COVID-19 pandemic resulted in postponement of the event until 3-6 August 2021, resulting in mixed emotions for both confirmed athletes and those still fighting for a place. reaching the zone hold with control). by Delaney Miller August 21, 2019. But beyond tugging at everyone’s emotions, Yip’s Olympic qualification was appropriate. She won combined discipline at the Pan-American Championship in 2018. [Note that the scoring for IFSC bouldering competitions—and, thus, bouldering in the Olympics—is different from the scoring of USA Climbing competitions. But saying she is a specialist is an understatement. But like American Brooke Raboutou, Pilz also attends college and “aims to become a role model for the next generation of climbers.” In a recent interview, Pilz specifically pointed out that she’d like to coach and route-set when her time of competing at the highest level comes to an end. Like Fossali, Khaibullin is a speed specialist. Official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing. ... 1 Athlete: Wildcard athlete invited by the Olympic Committee 1 Athlete: Japanese athlete selected by the Olympic Committee =20 Total. Twitter. A type of handhold (and the corresponding way of gripping it—usually with the thumb wrapped over the index finger) that is usually a small horizontal edge or lip. Sport climbing will make its Olympic debut at Tokyo 2020. There are many climbing-rating systems the world over; a full explanation can be found here. To that point about qualification, the Olympic qualification process for climbers has not been administratively smooth, and it is still ongoing with a number of Continental Championships looming on the calendar this spring...and a pair of berths still to be awarded by a Tripartite Commission. While bouldering and sport climbing share many similarities, speed … She has no Wikipedia entry; there are no extensive interviews readily available. In fact, competition diehards might be drooling at the possibility of getting an Olympic speed finale that features Fossali going head-to-head against Khaibullin. Although she has homed in on the Olympics and competition, she still has an affinity for outdoor climbing—evidenced by ticking her fifth route rated 5.14 approximately a year ago. Bassa Mawem is the oldest climber currently on the Olympic roster. Thus far, there will be representatives from Slovenia, Japan, Great Britain, Poland, Switzerland, Austria, Kazakhstan, France, Germany, Italy, Canada and the U.S. Twenty athletes of each gender will compete in the qualification round, with six competitors advancing to the final round on a … Athletes in the climbing event for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics will compete in three separate disciplines for a single set of medals. While the setters didn’t give this problem an official grade, those who’ve tried it so far peg the difficulty around V10. The decision to combine three disciplines—lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing—with one set of medals per … Given that Fossali is a strong and powerful climber due to his speed specialty, perhaps his greatest challenge will be mustering the requisite endurance needed for the longer lead climbing portion—and for the entire combined discipline itself. The inclusion of climbing in the Olympics is new, but the topic itself has been around for decades. So, if you’ve watched any USA Climbing Bouldering National Championships in which there are holds that are worth 10 points, 15 points, etc., be aware that the scoring for the bouldering portion of the Olympics will not be comparable.]. While not reckless, he climbs with a reckless abandon that makes his style instantly recognizable. Narasaki is one of the most exciting competitors to watch because of his relentless, all-out approach to every move. The climbers who have already qualified for the Olympics were selected through a series of Olympic qualification events, including the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Championships this past summer in Hachioji, Japan, and a more recent combined contest in Toulouse, France. Song broke the women’s speed world record last year with a time of 7.101 seconds. As a multi-time Youth World Champion, Duffy was extremely decorated on the youth circuit. She has been profiled by Southwest, Popsugar, NBC Sports, The Denver Post, as well as Climbing. There is a “zone hold” midway up each boulder. However, unlike many other Olympians who learned to climb as toddlers, Mawem was a natural athlete who did not pick up climbing until age 15. [Related] Coronavirus Threatens Olympics: 5 Options for the 2020 Tokyo Games. There will be a total of 40 climbers (20 men and 20 women) competing at the Tokyo Olympics, and each country attending the games has been given a maximum quota of two competitors per gender. Information or general strategizing about the best way to decipher the moves/sequences on a route. In a way, this makes her even more fascinating as a competitor, as her breakout success last season happened like an unexpected whirl of energy. He is perhaps best known in competition circles for having won the bouldering discipline of the 2018 World Championships. For example, he has sent Bishop’s famed Lucid Dreaming boulder problem (rated V15); he has claimed the first ascent of Fightclub (5.15b) in Canada; and he’s sent numerous 5.14+ and 5.15 benchmark rock climbs like Perfecto Mundo, First Round First Minute, La Rambla, Action Directe, Realization, Dreamcatcher, Hubble, etc. Gear used in lead climbing to secure the climber to the wall and help arrest a fall. US OLYMPIC LEADERS EYE CHANGE ON PROTESTS AMID WARY ATHLETES. Facebook. Tokyo, Japan, is hosting the Olympics for the first time since 1964. The International Olympic Committee added the sport during the … Chanourdie, like most of the Olympian climbers, parlayed a decorated youth competition career into the adult sphere. This makes him particularly adaptable to any style of route—indoors or outdoors. ... 1 Athlete: Wildcard athlete invited by the Olympic Committee 1 Athlete: Japanese athlete selected by the Olympic Committee =20 Total. The IFSC Combined Qualifier invited the top 22 athletes … Beyond that, it is hard to argue that he does not have a shot at making the Olympic podium—especially if he continues to improve just as rapidly in the months leading up to the Games. Although he has been working extensively on improving his speed runs, we should expect a similar game plan in the Olympics: weather the storm of the speed portion, and then post extremely high placements in the bouldering and lead portions. Her strongest discipline is bouldering and her weakest discipline is speed climbing. The Olympics thrive on these values, so climbing would be a perfect addition to the games. Sarah fell midway up the speed wall and was lowered by the auto-belay.
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